Final Rack/9 on a board Refuse?

[PyroFL]

Looking for a video or information on refusing a 9 shot final rack.

Most if not all have a final 2 or 3 shot at the end. What am looking to do is to make those into a 9 shot not 6 then 3 at the end.

I hate to use up 4 cues to do this and looking for options or suggestions

Thanks

C

[PyroFL]

I know I can refuse it.

Has anyone done this before? Any tricks or things I should know before doing it?

[ssmith512]

I've done it. Super simple. I just cut the existing fuse flush at the tube, pushed it into the tube with a small diameter brass poke, and then shoved my fuse into the tube using the same hole about 1". I refused an entire NOAB this way, I changed the fuse to all yellow fuse to shorten the duration overall. Put some tape on your fuse to protect it from fall out and premature ignition.

[PyroFL]

Ok so that did work

It looks to me it?s one long fuse and thought to myself how the heck will I line that to line up to pull it on the other side

Am looking to make it longer and not have 3 brakes at the same time

[ssmith512]

Yep, works fine. I just used separate, short pieces of fuse (long enough to go from tube to tube, not continuous).

Easy peasy!

[PyroFL]

Super!

Am doing it then

[Arles]

I've done it. Super simple. I just cut the existing fuse flush at the tube, pushed it into the tube with a small diameter brass poke, and then shoved my fuse into the tube using the same hole about 1". I refused an entire NOAB this way, I changed the fuse to all yellow fuse to shorten the duration overall. Put some tape on your fuse to protect it from fall out and premature ignition.

Thanks for the suggestions and thanks to PyroFL for the thread, I've always hated seeing those last three go at once.

[WithReport]

I typically individually match each tube on a NOAB. Swapping out the fuse is not much different. Be aware that not all NOABs are built the similar. It is probably best to try to get the fuse down low, below any lift charge cup on the shell. It also wouldn't hurt to add some additional pieces of black match in to the tube, if you have any.

I think this is a picture I shared on a prior post, but this igniter failed to ignite the tube as it was up against the side of the lift cup rather than down below in the black match. I suppose a fuse could have a similar same failure. I since try to make sure the igniter is pointing downward.

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=5661&stc=1


In terms of protecting the fuse from fallout, you may just want to put the boxes back on after refusing.

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=5660&stc=1


Also, I had difficulty getting into some of the center tubes to open up the hole with a poke, so one evening, in frustration, I threw together a super long poke that is very helpful with those center tubes.

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=5662&stc=1


I think in the future, I'm just going to rip all the tubes off the boards and use a rack - similar to single shots.

[upNdown]

I typically individually match each tube on a NOAB. Swapping out the fuse is not much different. Be aware that not all NOABs are built the similar. It is probably best to try to get the fuse down low, below any lift charge cup on the shell. It also wouldn't hurt to add some additional pieces of black match in to the tube, if you have any.

I think this is a picture I shared on a prior post, but this igniter failed to ignite the tube as it was up against the side of the lift cup rather than down below in the black match. I suppose a fuse could have a similar same failure. I since try to make sure the igniter is pointing downward.

5661


In terms of protecting the fuse from fallout, you may just want to put the boxes back on after refusing.

5660


Also, I had difficulty getting into some of the center tubes to open up the hole with a poke, so one evening, in frustration, I threw together a super long poke that is very helpful with those center tubes.

5662


I think in the future, I'm just going to rip all the tubes off the boards and use a rack - similar to single shots.

As somebody who is clearly using a bunch of product, why do you buy NOABs? I would assume they just have some effects you like? After firing shells and cakes for a few years, I finally tried a NOAB (Wacky tobacky) last year. I'll admit that as far as height, break, and noise go, they were a bit better than 60g cans, but absolutely only a bit, and not near enough in my opinion, to justify the per-shot cost difference. Just curious what the reasons are that people who know what they're doing, buy NOABs.

[Arles]

As somebody who is clearly using a bunch of product, why do you buy NOABs? I would assume they just have some effects you like? After firing shells and cakes for a few years, I finally tried a NOAB (Wacky tobacky) last year. I'll admit that as far as height, break, and noise go, they were a bit better than 60g cans, but absolutely only a bit, and not near enough in my opinion, to justify the per-shot cost difference. Just curious what the reasons are that people who know what they're doing, buy NOABs.

I wouldn't claim to know what I'm doing, but I'll typically use 4 NOABs during a show that I will also put up 300+ cannister shells and 20+ 500g cakes. The reason I do it is primarily for the symmetry and also the height that you can't get from the cannister shells. I like to fill the sky from multiple locations with the cakes covering low, the cannisters getting middle, and the NOAB's hitting the highest.

[WithReport]

As somebody who is clearly using a bunch of product, why do you buy NOABs? I would assume they just have some effects you like? After firing shells and cakes for a few years, I finally tried a NOAB (Wacky tobacky) last year. I'll admit that as far as height, break, and noise go, they were a bit better than 60g cans, but absolutely only a bit, and not near enough in my opinion, to justify the per-shot cost difference. Just curious what the reasons are that people who know what they're doing, buy NOABs.

I try to be selective on the NOABs. There are unique ones that some may argue are better than cans. However, I've gone through a share of NOABs that were pretty weak, too.

Here are some specific time links to segments in prior shows where I showcased NOABs - They provide a bit more layers (some are going a bit higher) and it changes the pace a bit and hopefully lets heavy smoke clear, if needed.


https://youtu.be/SC3jUvWovoM?t=835

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SC3jUvWovoM&t=835s


https://youtu.be/6znkkiYg4b8?t=700

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6znkkiYg4b8&t=700s


On that last link, in the finale of the show, I had some NOABs with Nishiki effect with great hangtime on top of everything, but the lingering smoke hid nearly all of it. I still think that finale segment may be my personal favorite - so far.

[PyroFL]

@ withreport

Off topic, your show, shows you don’t need $10,000 to do an amazing show.

Pyro show for Pyros ... I would call it

Amazing shows

[WithReport]

@PyroFL. Thanks. There are lots of good shows out there, I try to take bits and pieces from what I've seen elsewhere. WWB was a bit eye opener for me a few years ago and I'm glad to have been able to add to my firing cues over the last 5 years years, but started with just one module.

I realize the imbedded player jumps to the beginning, but text link goes right to the segments I was trying to share.

[Birdman]

Using NOABs in my show for the first time this year. They are Jellyfish effect shells that I think will outperform most anything else out there comparable. I've been wondering how best to wire these. Timing isn't key with these as they are mostly for filler and for the ones who like " the big stuff". I've decided just to cut back the fuse and use a visco to MJG connector to shorten lead time as much as possible. I added a couple of seconds lift time for them in my script to offset the little bit of fuse that will need to burn before they fire. I was surprised to find there wasn't much out on how best to wire these. I was going to ask the question at some point but now we have two posts about this.

[barehm]

anxiously awaiting a magical answer by watching both threads ;). I suspect there isn't a great answer. My NOAB problem presents itself as a NOAB dressed up like a cake, but all the mortar tubes are close together without an obvious way to tap into each tube. With all the extra fuse I cut off the end of other cannister shells, I might just pack them all into the location where the single fuse enters the first cardboard and pray my initiator lights it. I don't have a good sense on how well an initiator in a 3" cardboard tube will ignite a piece of visco passing through it.