New from West Virginia

[Tgwinn]

Hi guys. New here, been putting on a steady show every 4th for the past 5 years. Just got Dave's DVD to get my license, very helpful. I do have a few questions that I'm curious about.

1. How does everyone feel about milk crate racks? Tips, dos and don'ts.

2. I'm trying to make 3in and 4in racks. I have access to Dr11 in both sizes, but everywhere I have researched uses dr17 for 3in and dr21 for 4in. Question is, is there a difference in these options, like inside diameter or safety issues?? Or is the dr11 going to safely work for my project?

[357pyro]

Hi Tgwinn. I don't really have much input on your first question concerning the milk crate racks as i've never used them. On your second question, DR11 in those sizes will definitely be a fitment issue. The 3" DR11 has an ID of 2.825 inches and the 4" has an ID of 3.633 so neither of those are going to allow the shells to drop in freely as they should. I would stick with the pipe sizes that you found in your research. I know all of my 3" tubes are DR17.

[Tgwinn]

Thanks 357pyro, Appreciate the input. With all the research I could only find that the lower the "DR" number, the thicker the sidewall is and higher psi it will withstand. Which I thought was a safer bet but I was afraid of the ID being different. I couldn't find the numbers anywhere for ID. Until I would get on a forum like this where people wnow what they are doing!!

Any tips on building the racks?

And the milk crate racks are a general milk crate will perfectly hold 25 DR11 consumer tubes.

[Tgwinn]

Thanks 357pyro, Appreciate the input. With all the research I could only find that the lower the "DR" number, the thicker the sidewall is and higher psi it will withstand. Which I thought was a safer bet but I was afraid of the ID being different. I couldn't find the numbers anywhere for ID. Until I would get on a forum like this where people wnow what they are doing!!

Any tips on building the racks?

And the milk crate racks are a general milk crate will perfectly hold 25 DR11 consumer tubes.

[357pyro]

Here is a link that I use that has a chart of all of the HDPE pipe demensions on it http://www.fabcoplastics.com/media/uploads/documents/HDPE.pdf

3" inch racks are about the easiest size to build because the tubes are roughly 3.5" OD that is the same size as a 2x4. Use 1x4's for the side plates and dividers if you choose to use dividers. I have full length dividers in my racks but that is all personal preference really. Don't worry about using treated wood its just heavy and more expensive. I personally build my 3's in racks of 12 because my distributor (Lynch Imports) sells 3's in cases of 72 so that math just works out best. Most people do 10 but I think you might want to reference the distributor that you are going to use and see how their product is packaged. I don't have any 4 inch racks but building them would be similar, you will just have to rip down larger dimension lumber to fit the pipes, which is laborious and also wasteful in my opinion. I will post some pictures of my racks so you have something to reference.

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4633&stc=1

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4634&stc=1

[Tgwinn]

Thanks, I will have to check into that. What is the length of the tube? I will be getting pipe on 100' length and cutting my own. Way cheaper for me!

[357pyro]

Thanks, I will have to check into that. What is the length of the tube? I will be getting pipe on 100' length and cutting my own. Way cheaper for me!

My 3"s are 18 inches with a 1.5 inch wood plug. Most 4's I've seen are 24" with a 3" plug. Hopefully that helps you get started, and good luck on your 54 process. If you don't mind me asking are you just applying for contingency storage or are you going to have your own magazine?

[Tgwinn]

My 3"s are 18 inches with a 1.5 inch wood plug. Most 4's I've seen are 24" with a 3" plug. Hopefully that helps you get started, and good luck on your 54 process. If you don't mind me asking are you just applying for contingency storage or are you going to have your own magazine?

Contingency.. kinda having a little trouble getting a plan, so I'm stuck right now. Contacted 1 location Dave suggested, but haven't recieved a reply yet! And you have been a tremendous help!!

[357pyro]

Sounds like you are on the right track. I hope it all works out for you. Good idea starting the process now when the ATF isn't as busy.

[joewad]

3 inch racks are definately easier to build with 3 inch HDPE guns, no ripping required. Some people use spacers in 3s and some do not. I didn't start using spacers till 4 inch. If I were hand lighting 3s I'd prefer 10 shot racks without spacers due to weight of moving rack. Most 3 inch finale chains are also in chains of 10. Seems to be about 50/50 on 2.5 inch finale chains of 10 or 12 ( I went with 12) and 1 2x4 spacer between guns 6 & 7.
You'll hear pros and cons here about the use of milk crates. Personally, I use them and enjoy them. Great for both consumer and pro 1.75". Remember to place at least an inch or more of wood in the bottom of crate to prevent bouncing and help with stability. Guns are closer together in proximity so one can prevent a "sky puke" by using slower fuse. My favorite speed of fuse for consumer canisters is a lead fuse of 30 seconds running the length of 1 side igniting 30 second per foot fuse down each of the 5 rows. For 1.75 inch salutes the lead fuse is either consumer fast fuse or professional quick match down 1 side then each row (5) fused with 5 second per foot fuse.

[PyroKing31]

You'll hear pros and cons here about the use of milk crates. Personally, I use them and enjoy them. Great for both consumer and pro 1.75". Remember to place at least an inch or more of wood in the bottom of crate to prevent bouncing and help with stability. Guns are closer together in proximity so one can prevent a "sky puke" by using slower fuse. My favorite speed of fuse for consumer canisters is a lead fuse of 30 seconds running the length of 1 side igniting 30 second per foot fuse down each of the 5 rows. For 1.75 inch salutes the lead fuse is either consumer fast fuse or professional quick match down 1 side then each row (5) fused with 5 second per foot fuse.

I also use milk crates with success, but yes as jowad said, I use a piece of 3/4 ply on the bottom for stability. I have 5 crates loaded and have had no issues with bouncing at all.

Joewad can you explain more about the fusing you are talking about? I use 30 sec/ foot for my consumer cans and balls in the crates in a S pattern doubling back on every row and its still a bit fast for me. Trying to slow it down to reduce puke

[joewad]

I have used the "s" pattern of fusing but have come to like fusing EACH row with its own 30 second foot fuse with an inch or so over hang on one end then running a lead fuse of 30 seconds per foot down 1 end of the rack thus attaching to each fuse ( kinda like a complex looking letter E). Slower fuse will result in slowing it down also. I tried the trick of tieing each canister fuse to the connecting fuse and it slowed it down even more. Tieing each shell to the lead and trimming off excess, given shell fuse is long enough, will slow it down even more. Your s pattern is slower than my way unless you use some 40-45 second per foot fuse. I tested this an posted it elsewhere. I believe the tieing method with my method was 40 seconds for 25 shots.

[PyroKing31]

I have used the "s" pattern of fusing but have come to like fusing EACH row with its own 30 second foot fuse with an inch or so over hang on one end then running a lead fuse of 30 seconds per foot down 1 end of the rack thus attaching to each fuse ( kinda like a complex looking letter E). Slower fuse will result in slowing it down also. I tried the trick of tieing each canister fuse to the connecting fuse and it slowed it down even more. Tieing each shell to the lead and trimming off excess, given shell fuse is long enough, will slow it down even more. Your s pattern is slower than my way unless you use some 40-45 second per foot fuse. I tested this an posted it elsewhere. I believe the tieing method with my method was 40 seconds for 25 shots.

Got the concept! Thank you. I had been lining up the leader fuse from the shells parallel and then taping them with the fuse burning towards the open end. Its tedious. This tieing method sounds faster. Do you happen to have a photo? Thanks!

[Tgwinn]

Thanks for the input! Would it be overkill to put a "S" of wood glue between the wood and tubes?

[joewad]

Thanks for the input! Would it be overkill to put a "S" of wood glue between the wood and tubes?

Additional layer of safety but makes cleaning or repair a bit more difficult. I've read where some people do add "liquid nails" to plugs of guns or board itself. Your call.

[joewad]

Got the concept! Thank you. I had been lining up the leader fuse from the shells parallel and then taping them with the fuse burning towards the open end. Its tedious. This tieing method sounds faster. Do you happen to have a photo? Thanks!

There's a video out there on youtube or possibly linked elsewhere here at forum. Let me take a look and try to find it.

Found it while I can still edit. Try here: https://youtu.be/NfvHPeFZjKE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfvHPeFZjKE&feature=youtu.be

[Fire Art]

Welcome to the forums. What part of WV are you in? I could help you with contingency if close enough.

[Rick_In_Tampa]

Tgwinn - Welcome aboard. I also use milk crate racks and I've never had an issue with them until this past year. I had 2 tubes fly out of the same crate. Fortunately the shells went straight up. I set all of my crates (12) on wooden platforms. Turns out the one platform was rotted and I didn't realize it. So this year I'm going to do what everyone else is suggesting and put wood in the bottom of each crate. I think I'm also going to use liquid nails and glue each tube down as well.

Here's a picture of some of my crates from 2017.

http://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4637&stc=1

[Tgwinn]

Welcome to the forums. What part of WV are you in? I could help you with contingency if close enough.

I'm in Fairmont wv, 20 minutes south of morgantown

[Tgwinn]

Tgwinn - Welcome aboard. I also use milk crate racks and I've never had an issue with them until this past year. I had 2 tubes fly out of the same crate. Fortunately the shells went straight up. I set all of my crates (12) on wooden platforms. Turns out the one platform was rotted and I didn't realize it. So this year I'm going to do what everyone else is suggesting and put wood in the bottom of each crate. I think I'm also going to use liquid nails and glue each tube down as well.

Here's a picture of some of my crates from 2017.

4637

Thanks, what time in the video are your crates going off?