burst charge problems

[pyrosamm]

does anyone else know why my hulls are not collecting as much bp on them as they used to in years past im still using 6 parts fine bp to 1 part hulls and dextrin as binder but they just arent getting plump or heavily coated like before. They end up just looking like they were painted black with no real slurry build up on them. Am i not letting the hulls drain long enough before adding bp "too watery"

this second part isnt really a problem more of a question i guess, is there any pros and cons associated with lightly dusting the coated hulls with a booster either slow flash or spanish, versus a flash bag or tablespoon dump in the center? in my mind i think a light dust coating around all hulls evenly would flash fire better than a spoon dump, but im assuming its the safety hazard you create with mixing around flash over a sulfur containing comp like coated rice hulls

thanks

[Kenny East]

I usually soak my rice hulls in hot water for as long as possible before I strain out the water. Kinda sounds like you may have too much water when dusting in the bp. I had a similar run when I first made h3 coated rice hulls... Came out looking like black painted/stained rice hulls rather than nice coated ones.

I use a pvc pipe with a clean out fitting full of holes drilled trough and covered with a screen to press the excess water from them. Using a disc of hdpe on the end of a 2 x2 as a piston. I have heard of others running it through a spin cycle in the washer inside a cloth bag to separate the water out.

Try a smaller batch, remove more water... See if that helps. As for your second question... I use a small sheet of tissue for a flash bag of I'm using flash.... If I'm using h3 powder or whistle mix I usually just dump it center and assemble the shell. Careful selection of star formulas and prime formulas can help to eliminate some of the risk associated with double decay reactions and other exothermic reactions that can cause spontaneous ignition.

[pyrosamm]

I usually soak my rice hulls in hot water for as long as possible before I strain out the water. Kinda sounds like you may have too much water when dusting in the bp. I had a similar run when I first made h3 coated rice hulls... Came out looking like black painted/stained rice hulls rather than nice coated ones.

I use a pvc pipe with a clean out fitting full of holes drilled trough and covered with a screen to press the excess water from them. Using a disc of hdpe on the end of a 2 x2 as a piston. I have heard of others running it through a spin cycle in the washer inside a cloth bag to separate the water out.

Try a smaller batch, remove more water... See if that helps. As for your second question... I use a small sheet of tissue for a flash bag of I'm using flash.... If I'm using h3 powder or whistle mix I usually just dump it center and assemble the shell. Careful selection of star formulas and prime formulas can help to eliminate some of the risk associated with double decay reactions and other exothermic reactions that can cause spontaneous ignition.

yOU PUT IN A SCOOP OF H3 BOOSTER ON BP COATED HULLS? is there just too little sulfur in the bp to cause reaction with chlorate in h3? or are you taking a risk ?

[Kenny East]

Guess it technically isn't h3, I use the same formula... Just substitute perchlorate for the chlorate.... Though the risk is quite low, as long as all ingredients are dry and humidity while assembling and storing is low.

I've never had an issue, seen it dumped into bp rice hulls... Most formulas I use avoid chlorates.