Cobra parallel wiring

[FireworkNewbie]

So I just came in from doing some cobra parallel ignition tests. Since I don't understand how exactly continuity works, I don't trust wiring in parallel. I have two ideas of how it works... one being that the current from the module needs to touch each wire that is in the module. The second, as long as the current touches any wire, it will pass to the other ones that are twisted together... ie, if the continuity check passes, that is saying all 4 wires WILL work.

So my confusion comes from today... I was wiring in parallel of 4. I twisted the ends together as instructed. One test only ignited 3 of the four fuses, the other, all 4 lit. On the test that "failed," I examined the igniter clip was didn't light and it looked like the filiment was broke or loose... not sure if I wasn't gentle enough when inserting the fuse or what.

Can anyone shed some light on what could have happened or how current works with parallel wiring... thank you.

[displayfireworks1]

I have videos about how to do this type of wiring and electrical firing. Are you using consumer igniters? No sure if connecting multiple of those together works well. I suggest moving into electric match or the Firewire Initiators (don't say igniter).

[FireworkNewbie]

I'm using talon igniters. I read that it should work in parallel up to 4. I also read not to not to wire in series due to possibility of failing along the line and not completing the circuit.

[Stormcrow]

4 in parallel worked for me last time. I was careful not to break the filament when attaching the talon and I tested continuity on each talon before connecting them together.

[MtnViewPyro]

I use a cheaper system than a cobra that uses double A batteries. If the batteries are good, the system will fire 4 in parallel like a charm. Talon igniters are very fragile. I have found several damaged before doing anything myself to them. If at all possible, I try to avoid using talons due to this issue.

[Rick_In_Tampa]

There were problems with version 7 of the talons. Check the clip to see if you're using version 7. This could be the issue.

I suppose you could also try not twisting the wires together, and just sticking all 4 leads into the cue.

[esgrillo]

Newbie the issue is when you wire in parallel with the Cobra, if only one of the talons is good you will show good continuity for the cue even if there are 3,4, etc talons wired to it. All the others can be bad and you will still get a green light. It is the biggest problem imo with parallel wiring. That being said I use parallel wiring all the time with excellent results. I do however test each talon for continuity and resistance individually to make sure they are good after I connect to a cake/shell.

Rick is correct above. I had an issue with ver 7 talons as described a couple years ago. Use ver 8 to make sure they will work to spec with a Cobra. I was trying to use 5 talons on a lipo 18m and it did not work great with ver 7. No problems with ver 8.

You are right, never in series for talons. Once that first filament burns you will likely open the circuit and the rest will fail.

[FireworkNewbie]

So you are saying you first put the talon in the cue to check to see if it is a working talon before using it for whatever later on? Like plugging in Christmas lights to check before hanging them?

[CMiller]

You use a multi meter to check continuity.

[esgrillo]

Newbie, I check with a multimeter not the cobra. I just check the resistance. All the good ones are in the same range. If one shows a real odd number compared to the rest, I toss it (probably overkill with that I am sure) but an open circuit will clearlyshow right away on the multimeter so those definitely will not fire.

I do all of this when setting up my cakes in advance. If you look at the video in my signature you will see some of these set up steps in the beginning.

[FireworkNewbie]

Thanks esgrillo, I will get a multimeter for this! Unfortunately I have no clue what kind to get... never shopped for one; do I need a special one or a basic one will do? Any tips?

[Rick_In_Tampa]

I just did a quick Google search and it looks like Wal Mart has one for $12.95 that checks resistance. Should be all you need. As a matter of fact, I think I'm going to pick one up myself!

[Pyro Paul]

Just something I came across relating to multimeters and checking continuity on e-match/talons...

"I think we need to clarify something relating to multimeters and safety, since so many are getting into E firing with E-matches as well as clip on type igniters for the first time. Using a multimeter to check continuity with clip on (Talon) type igniters does not pose a safety hazard. On the other hand, using an off the shelf multimeter to the check continuity of circuits with E-matches can create a significant safety hazard. There are multimeters out there that will allow enough current flow on the Ohmmeter function that is high enough to fire an E-match."

A lot of us already know this but I thought it prudent to put this out there for the ones that don't.

[Rick_In_Tampa]

That is great information to have Paul!! Thanks for sharing it.

[FireworkNewbie]

Yes, thank you, that is great to know going forward!

[FireworkNewbie]

Ok, one last thing for checking the continuity with a multimeter. It might sound dumb, but when do you check? Before you attach the talon to the fuse or after?

[esgrillo]

I always check after I attach to the fuse and have secured the wire/clip with tape. It is during that process that any damage will be done to the wire so I always check after.

[FireworkNewbie]

Great, thank you. So I'm assuming then, if it reads "off" from the norm, then you pitch it and redo. I appreciate the help.