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kingsixx
07-14-2017, 09:57 AM
Does anyone have any experience with these? I see them all over youtube and was wondering how they hold up. Are the bottoms reinforced with a piece of plywood or do people just drop in the HDPE tubes in them and call it a day?

Bazerk
07-14-2017, 10:26 AM
Does anyone have any experience with these? I see them all over youtube and was wondering how they hold up. Are the bottoms reinforced with a piece of plywood or do people just drop in the HDPE tubes in them and call it a day?

I have and still do use milk crates for my 1.75 tubes. They fit 25 in there perfectly and work very well. You will want to put a piece of plywood in the bottom though and if you watch this video towards the end, you will see exactly why. The first video show what happens if you dont and the second video shows how it should go.


https://youtu.be/UyU1D60HTZ0

https://youtu.be/qgMveezbT7A

Big Worm
07-14-2017, 11:09 AM
Is there any need for spacing between 1.75 mortars? I realize they are usually touching in racks, but they are in a signal line. Even if racks are touching the mortars aren't directly touching from rack to rack, like they are packed in the milk crate. I think the crate is a neat idea and they plywood bottom makes sense, but was curious if there was a failure would it be catastrophic? I know 1.4 product is different from 1.3 as far as mass detonation, just wanted some feedback on that. Would the cake blow apart easily?

Bazerk
07-14-2017, 11:20 AM
I dont think it would blow the crate apart. Even with a 1.3 2in canister salute in those tubes (which is what I use them for) I had one detonate in the tube and the pipe swelled, it didnt even break the pipe. So having dealt with that personally I would say that they are safe touching and contained within the crate. On the flip side, even when I didnt have the plywood in the bottom, the down pressure cracked the bottom of the crate and the tubes started bouncing out, every shell still went up before the tubes bounced out because the lift from the shell was what was causing the tubes to jump around in the first place. Make sense?

FlyingDutchman
07-14-2017, 11:36 AM
Dumb question but, where would I find quality milk crates?

PyroDre
07-14-2017, 11:39 AM
Dumb question but, where would I find quality milk crates?
i got some of mine from my local grocery store...talk real nice to the right person and they might give you a few.

Bazerk
07-14-2017, 11:52 AM
You can but them at home Depot for $10 or as Dre suggested, many times you can just as your local grocery store or convenient store and they may give them to you.

PyroDre
07-14-2017, 11:55 AM
here's a pic i posted in another thread. i use zip ties to keep them from bouncing.. I've never had one bounce out. but i do like the plywood idea, but it would make them much heavier

http://i64.tinypic.com/2l8dqac.jpg

kingsixx
07-14-2017, 12:04 PM
Thanks guys, this is just what I was looking for. I guess besides the plywood, the only other thing I can think of to do would be to use some stakes on all sides of the crate to ensure that it won't tip over.

So 25 tubes in a standard milk crate correct?

Bazerk
07-14-2017, 12:16 PM
Thanks guys, this is just what I was looking for. I guess besides the plywood, the only other thing I can think of to do would be to use some stakes on all sides of the crate to ensure that it won't tip over.

So 25 tubes in a standard milk crate correct?

I have never used stakes on these. I am using the largest shells that you can fit into those tubes with zero movement of the crate itself. I wouldnt bother with that to be honest. 25 tubes per crate, yes.

kingsixx
07-14-2017, 12:32 PM
Thank you!

PyroDre
07-14-2017, 12:40 PM
Thanks guys, this is just what I was looking for. I guess besides the plywood, the only other thing I can think of to do would be to use some stakes on all sides of the crate to ensure that it won't tip over.

So 25 tubes in a standard milk crate correct?
yep ...but some fit a little tighter than others... a few of mine i had to take a rubber mallet and bang them all in there LOL

PyroJoeNEPA
07-14-2017, 01:29 PM
Personally--I have always been an "anti-milk crate" rack guy. Straight line racks properly made are safer and more able to be set for angles & groups. That being said, I would say that if you are intent on using the MCR's be sure the crate you get is a heavy duty one--the ones sold in Wal Mart & other places for home "storage use" are cheap plastic & will break on you. Also, you definitely need a bottom plate in them to reinforce them. I know guys on here will say they have been using them for years with no issues & I won't argue that--however--when "Mr Murphy" rears his ugly head and one blows apart you can have some serious issues. Since a lot of the 60g canister shells out there now are coming through "heavy" the probability of a CATO is more likely than it was 2-3 years ago.
I've shot some 1.4g cans that are more violent coming out of the tubes than the 2 1/2" 1.3g salutes we shoot!!!
In a straight line rack you only are touching one-or two-adjacent tubes. In a MCR you may be in contact with as many as four other tubes. True, HDPE holds up pretty well with an in tube failure--but not always. I wouldn't want to see a Zombie shell blow in a tube in one of these crates.
I can't cut straight with a table saw [truth!!] but I can build a straight line rack for just a few bucks & I know it isn't going to be an issue.
Just my $ .02 FWIW.

chrish
07-14-2017, 04:11 PM
the crates i use are HDPE from rural king. they cost 5.99. the crate will sred and stretch just like the tube if there is ever a problem . the only real problem is if a center tube blows it could knock some other tubes out and they fire sideways. but this is true of ny multilayer rack.

yes single layer racks are safest, but if proper distance is kept there is not a problem.

however when i seen the HDPE that settleed it for me. i know shratenal will not be a problem. This is also why i build my other racks out of 2x3 (bottoms and ends) and 4 inch firring strips for everything else. i would rather the wood shred rather than blow chucks of yellow pine 2x4 at me.

kingsixx
07-15-2017, 04:40 PM
I have and still do use milk crates for my 1.75 tubes. They fit 25 in there perfectly and work very well. You will want to put a piece of plywood in the bottom though and if you watch this video towards the end, you will see exactly why. The first video show what happens if you dont and the second video shows how it should go.


https://youtu.be/UyU1D60HTZ0

https://youtu.be/qgMveezbT7A

HOLY CRAP dude, those finales were insane. Better than some of the "pro" displays I've seen.

Bazerk
07-15-2017, 05:42 PM
HOLY CRAP dude, those finales were insane. Better than some of the "pro" displays I've seen.

I appreciate that bud. I like to call them progressive finales. It starts with the longest cake and keeps building by adding more and more cakes and then time them to all end at the same time.

Big Worm
07-19-2017, 02:56 PM
Just found some crates in my garage! They have a thick metal band around them.
Tubes fit tight this is exciting!
2521

Bazerk
07-19-2017, 03:32 PM
Just found some crates in my garage! They have a thick metal band around them.
Tubes fit tight this is exciting!
2521

Ah the simple things. Good find bud!

PyroManiacs
07-19-2017, 05:00 PM
Personally--I have always been an "anti-milk crate" rack guy. Straight line racks properly made are safer and more able to be set for angles & groups. That being said, I would say that if you are intent on using the MCR's be sure the crate you get is a heavy duty one--the ones sold in Wal Mart & other places for home "storage use" are cheap plastic & will break on you. Also, you definitely need a bottom plate in them to reinforce them. I know guys on here will say they have been using them for years with no issues & I won't argue that--however--when "Mr Murphy" rears his ugly head and one blows apart you can have some serious issues. Since a lot of the 60g canister shells out there now are coming through "heavy" the probability of a CATO is more likely than it was 2-3 years ago.
I've shot some 1.4g cans that are more violent coming out of the tubes than the 2 1/2" 1.3g salutes we shoot!!!
In a straight line rack you only are touching one-or two-adjacent tubes. In a MCR you may be in contact with as many as four other tubes. True, HDPE holds up pretty well with an in tube failure--but not always. I wouldn't want to see a Zombie shell blow in a tube in one of these crates.
I can't cut straight with a table saw [truth!!] but I can build a straight line rack for just a few bucks & I know it isn't going to be an issue.
Just my $ .02 FWIW.

Im with you Joe. To me, they are just straight up not safe.

Icooclast
07-19-2017, 08:59 PM
since we are on the subject.. how many tubes will fit there with their bases on? i was thinking of doing this instead of racks, only i was just going to put the tubes i get from the kits into them, would that work? i know i'd fit less tubes in, but how much less?

NorthernKYPyro
07-20-2017, 04:23 PM
I've used milk crates for 3 years. I only use the DR11 tubes I buy off Pyroboom. I've never had any problems. I get mine from the local market. They let me grab as many as I want so long as I buy some food from them lol. As for safety, I have never had a problem, although one time I had a 1.75 Canister blow in the outer side tube. Didn't do anything bad, just blew side of crate out. I highly recommend them.

kingsixx
07-20-2017, 06:28 PM
since we are on the subject.. how many tubes will fit there with their bases on? i was thinking of doing this instead of racks, only i was just going to put the tubes i get from the kits into them, would that work? i know i'd fit less tubes in, but how much less?

I'm not sure about that. Putting them in with their bases still attached sounds like a recipe for disaster.

PyroManiacs
07-20-2017, 10:29 PM
.... sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Basically what we are getting at with using milk crates in the first place.

jamisonlm3
07-20-2017, 11:22 PM
To make racks, many people screw their Excalibur and fiberglass mortars to larger boards. The same thing could be done with a piece of plywood cut to fit in the bottom of the milk crate. The sides of the mortar's bases would need to be trimmed to get more than four in the milk crate.

flatlander
07-22-2017, 05:30 PM
Just Curious has anyone used the older vintage metal milk crates.

TNtwister
08-02-2017, 01:58 PM
Go ahead and use those Milk Crates. Just not with Canister Shells or Salutes. Yeah, it had wood bottom, about 1/2" between rows PLUS a ratchet strap around it. Yes, Fiberglass is a way different dynamic, but the HDPE ones will come apart as well, although not quite as violently.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLAK0A_ahTI

chrish
08-02-2017, 10:27 PM
this really isn't a function of the milk crate itself. its more a function of any multi-row rack. it seems that most of the people on here that post against milk crate racks show a single row rock as the proper rack example. This means the most tubes touching another tube is only two, or on two sides. any multi-row rack will have multiple mortars surrounded on all four sides. If the rack is built of light grade wood and the above happens it will shred as well. mortars and rack material will go everywhere just like above.

a single row rack can let the energy out safer and should typically have less damage and hold most its mortars stay in place.

it simply comes down to risk tolerance. if a multi-row , dense rack has a mortar failure the above video is a possibility. I will agree that a MC rack is probably the most loosely held mortar rack and just about the most densely packed rack since there is no space between any of the mortars. But I have seen wood multi-row wood racks do the same thing.

your safest racks will be single row racks properly stacked to the ground. however be careful standing on your safety high horse or someone may ask why you don't put you 2" mortars in the ground like big mortars. once again it all comes down to how much risk you are willing to accept and then planning for the possibilities those risk pose.

that is a great video of the risk of a multi-row rack like a MC rack. for those that haven't seen a shell go off in the mortar that is what happens. And if you light enough shells, it will happen, just plan for it.

NorthernKYPyro
08-06-2017, 10:36 PM
I Can see that video made it appear much more dangerous than reality. That would definitely not be fun to be anywhere near, but we have to keep distance in mind. Even when hand lighting, I try to not get close to anything that isn't all cardboard. that includes any type of rack. My opinion is that if you keep your distance, this type of explosion is no more dangerous than that of a wooden rack. Now, would I go anything larger than a color canister shell in these, no.

displayfireworks1
08-07-2017, 06:22 PM
I swear they should include an extra mortar in every case of 1.75 ball salutes. I have seen more 1.75 and 2 inch small ball salutes blow apart in the guns than any other shell. I have not used many canister shell salutes, but I never hand a consumer canister shell CATO to date.

aerialpyro
08-07-2017, 06:54 PM
Safety has two components, risk of a failure the consequences of one. If you are able to mitigate at least one of these then you are ok.

Distance is your friend. Assume the worst will happen and plan to either be a safe distance when it blows, or make sure it doesn't blow very hard so you can be closer. Safety has more to do with the person using the rack then anything else.

Even a 8" salute without a lift charge placed in a celluloid mortar is safe when remotely loaded and fired in an empty 10 acre gravel quarry in the wilderness...

One risk with a milk crate setup like this would be if it blew apart the bundle while also igniting the fuse on adjacent shells... That wouldn't be good at all.
Reinforcing the base is a really good thing, and isn't that hard. Worth it especially if you have larger tubes or lift charges.
Large tube spacing helps reduce damage to other tubes in an event like this and gives the gasses places to go. Personally, I would try to only use racks like this in situations were the consequences of the whole thing blowing at once are minimal.

Take the time to safely learn what a failure can look like and operate so that you won't get hurt when it happens.

If you make some dummy HDPE tubes with vent holes to replace half of the contents of a milk crate rack then you have the spacing when you need it while still having the option of a dense pack when you have the space. Make sure to plug the top of your dummy tubes to make sure you don't accidentally load a shell in to it.

TNtwister
08-10-2017, 10:07 AM
I swear they should include an extra mortar in every case of 1.75 ball salutes. I have seen more 1.75 and 2 inch small ball salutes blow apart in the guns than any other shell. I have not used many canister shell salutes, but I never hand a consumer canister shell CATO to date.

I've lost a couple racks to ball salutes. Haha, I make sure and check to see if the lift charge is still in there now.

TNtwister
08-10-2017, 10:25 AM
I've used milk crates for 3 years. I only use the DR11 tubes I buy off Pyroboom. I've never had any problems. I get mine from the local market. They let me grab as many as I want so long as I buy some food from them lol. As for safety, I have never had a problem, although one time I had a 1.75 Canister blow in the outer side tube. Didn't do anything bad, just blew side of crate out. I highly recommend them.

The HDPE ones we did later survived. Although they split the bottom or a corner all 3 times. That was a fun day (:

This guy is off fiberglass though. Those things were like butter.