Steel Pipe Mortars

[wizard7611]

Where can I buy some steel mortars?

[Northern Sky]

If you were closer, I could hook you up. Shipping would be a killer.

[PyroJoeNEPA]

Check with a local welding company. They can cut/fabricate anything you need....but I hope you have "deep pockets". LOL!

[Westpapyro]

If you were closer, I could hook you up. Shipping would be a killer.

Road Trip!

[displayfireworks1]

Holmes on pyrotalk and I were talking about this, he said there is a place here in Pittsburgh selling metal products. We were going to check it out. Not sure what all they sell. I am looking to start experimenting with a Thunder Mug.

[wizard7611]

Well, since I live in Nebraska, I think I'll get a better chance finding these tubes if I go to the capitol city of Lincoln. There are many businesses there for metal working, but I find this one the best especially since they have a picture of a rack with carbon steel pipe on it: http://www.metalworksinc.net/material_sales/material_sales.html

I'm just hoping it's not too expensive, as in, $200 per tube. I've already seen several companies come up to the $100 range for one tube (6 inch x 36").

[jknepp1954]

get some one from a local metal/welding shop to make you one.
The danger of metal blowing up is why these are pretty much obsolete anymore.
The only thing i think to use these for is your flame pots/dragons breath/gas/kerosene flames etc.

[wizard7611]

get some one from a local metal/welding shop to make you one.
The danger of metal blowing up is why these are pretty much obsolete anymore.
How are they dangerous? I thought they were the safest way to shoot shells out of.

[Pyro k]

Check your local scrap metal yard!! Some places will sell to you, but not all. Our family owns a scrap recycling business and you would be amazed what people throw away.

[algrant1]

If shooting shells you want to use HDPE pipe.

[wizard7611]

If shooting shells you want to use HDPE pipe.
Actually, no. Big shells like multi breaks need more shock absorption, which is why I'm looking to use steel mortars. HDPE tubes wouldn't be able to resist the shock of the lift from one of these shells. If I shot it out of an HDPE mortar tube, the lift would destroy the tube before reaching some height, therefore, exploding on ground. So it's basically like a failed mine, but a very dangerous one. By the way, if it is a brand new tube and was sealed with a steel plate to cap off the explosion on the bottom, the tube would be perfectly fine. What I mean is, a shell will only fail in a steel tube when rust takes place on the tube corroding it.

[Northern Sky]

Make sure you bury the tubes 2/3 to 4/3 depending where you live and what specs you look at.

[ras1986]

Nearly all of the mortars I have are steel. 2 inch welded seam tube with .093 wall. almost exactly 1.875 inches inside diameter. Never had a problem. I intentionally put a true 60 gram shell in upside down 5 or 6 times to see if it would blow. Plus you don't need to make a rack. I just weld the tubes together and they take up was a aa less storage space.

[displayfireworks1]

At one time I had a few of 5 inch steel mortars and gave them away. They were commonly use on some of these old Italian style cylinder multi-break displays. There has to be a bunch of them out there somewhere gathering dust. This is the kind of thing you want to purchase at a PGI convention. Put the word out in the PGI bulletin you are looking for them and have someone deliver it to a convention you plan to attend.

[Northern Sky]

Put the word out in the PGI bulletin you are looking for them and have someone deliver it to a convention you plan to attend.

That is a really good idea if you don't need them before August. I have gotten some great deals on mortars and product at PGI.

[PyroJoeNEPA]

I know someone that has a couple 12" laying out in a field. What a shame!

[Niceshellsdude]

I start pipe welding in school in two weeks. I may experiment and try to make a few of these as a project.

[Deflagrated]

Hello Derrick,
Hopefully your reading the threads and watching the videos, and have ordered your ATF 54 package from Display1. I have a couple of thoughts to share to see if you are. My steel mortars were purchased from a local well drilling company. The mortars are fabricated from SCH 40 welded mild steel tube with SCH 80 used for construction of the lift chambers. The cap or plug welds are stronger than the pipe itself when properly fitted. They are always fully buried, so it is important to ensure they are watertight, so I test them. I bore and then bury steel mortars in the ground with plenty of extra spacing between them removing all large rocks or debris from the immediate area. With a burst pressure rating close to 3000PSI they will easily handle the lift charge of any firework shell you choose to build or purchase, however with that said even when fully buried if a shell burst inside the tube do not expect the mortar to either remain in place, or in one piece. It won't. There is a light groove machined in the top 1/3 of each mortar to aid in splitting the tube close to grade upon shell failure, so best case scenario is the mortar will simply split open letting dirt and fire fly, but don't count on it. 3 tiers of sandbags placed fully around each 8" or larger mortar both ensures an extra safety measure, and makes for a highly impressive looking display setup. Folks know when they see sandbag mortar emplacements from a distance it's going to get special. As with everything there are risk associated when using steel mortars that have to be minimized. Always give steel mortars the distance and respect they deserve. When I was in training we would place 8" and larger steel mortars in stabilized barrels filled with sand on barge setups. I figured it an option when I hit shallow rock on land once, but simply opted to avoid heavy shells. Just as a note I once hit a forced sewer main during a setup, so always remember dig permits before auguring or trenching in municipal areas. I use steel for heavy 5" and 6" shells, and it's all I have for 8" thru 12". When considering 20 years of service without a problem, lift performance, and no failed inspections to date the durability of steel mortars to me simply has no substitute, but they do have limitations. Never use steel mortars in any exposed or rack configuration. Bury then barricade. When you see this give me a call. Thanks

[RalphieJ]

Hello Derrick,
Hopefully your reading the threads and watching the videos, and have ordered your ATF 54 package from Display1. I have a couple of thoughts to share to see if you are. My steel mortars were purchased from a local well drilling company. The mortars are fabricated from SCH 40 welded mild steel tube with SCH 80 used for construction of the lift chambers. The cap or plug welds are stronger than the pipe itself when properly fitted. They are always fully buried, so it is important to ensure they are watertight, so I test them. I bore and then bury steel mortars in the ground with plenty of extra spacing between them removing all large rocks or debris from the immediate area. With a burst pressure rating close to 3000PSI they will easily handle the lift charge of any firework shell you choose to build or purchase, however with that said even when fully buried if a shell burst inside the tube do not expect the mortar to either remain in place, or in one piece. It won't. There is a light groove machined in the top 1/3 of each mortar to aid in splitting the tube close to grade upon shell failure, so best case scenario is the mortar will simply split open letting dirt and fire fly, but don't count on it. 3 tiers of sandbags placed fully around each 8" or larger mortar both ensures an extra safety measure, and makes for a highly impressive looking display setup. Folks know when they see sandbag mortar emplacements from a distance it's going to get special. As with everything there are risk associated when using steel mortars that have to be minimized. Always give steel mortars the distance and respect they deserve. When I was in training we would place 8" and larger steel mortars in stabilized barrels filled with sand on barge setups. I figured it an option when I hit shallow rock on land once, but simply opted to avoid heavy shells. Just as a note I once hit a forced sewer main during a setup, so always remember dig permits before auguring or trenching in municipal areas. I use steel for heavy 5" and 6" shells, and it's all I have for 8" thru 12". When considering 20 years of service without a problem, lift performance, and no failed inspections to date the durability of steel mortars to me simply has no substitute, but they do have limitations. Never use steel mortars in any exposed or rack configuration. Bury then barricade. When you see this give me a call. Thanks

There's a ton of bad advice and practices in this thread, frighteningly so, but not this post. Here's someone who knows how to safely use steel mortars. Heed his words.

[PyroManiacs]

There's a ton of bad advice and practices in this thread, frighteningly so, but not this post. Here's someone who knows how to safely use steel mortars. Heed his words.

Exactly why I posted thread. :)

[fatcat]

OK guys, I find this post extremely interesting, but speaking as a strictly 1.4 guy I have a question for you folks that deal in the large shells.
The question is How much explosive power are we talking about in the lift charge. I always thought steel was super strong. ( I am assuming that the lift charge is the most explosive part of a big shell) I realize that dynamite can be of various strengths but how would you equate the lift charge to dynamite ,, a quarter stick. half stick etc? I don't even know if that is a legit question, but I do know as a pyro supplier once told me that 1.3 can kill you and 1.4 can really ruin your day, my curiosity is up. If this is a stupid question then have the post deleted, but awaiting your thoughts .

[PyroJoeNEPA]

Surprisingly, the lift charge for a large cylinder shell is not as large as you would think it is. Look at some of the pictures of the Italian and Maltese large multi break shells--you will see a relatively small lift bag on the bottom.' The issue here is the tremendous amount of gas pressure created in the bottom of the mortar tube. A cylinder shell fits extremely tight in the tube for the entire length of the shell--allowing NO gas to escape around the shell like it would do with a conventional ball shell [of any size]. It is this extreme amount of pressure that propels the cylinder out of the tube & on its way...a ball shell only has "confines" inside the mortar around its equator--allowing for the gas to disperse along the bottom half of the hemisphere--so I think you can see the difference in the amount of gas pressure vs the exact surface area it is in contact with.
That extreme pressure in the bottom foot of the tube is where the magic happens--but also where the danger lies. I hope this helps explain things.

[fatcat]

Thanks for the explanation Joe. Now it makes more sense. I would assume that is why In the 1.4 world the excal tubes have the extra "ring of protection" for lack of better words around them