how do you put ematch ports on consumer items

[martymower]

How do you put e match ports on consumer items. I have some of the new consumer matches and a bag of ports. Is it best to tape them, glue them. or use rubber bands. I just do consumer stuff and have never used e match type products before. Is there a vid somewhere?

[Northern Sky]

The best method is to direct match to the product with a brass awl.
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[PGH_Pyro]

poke into the lift charge or wherever the original visco was attached and stick match in and tape down in a couple places to keep it from yanking out .

[Pyro Nation]

Well, cut visco on the cake at a angle... Attach Ematch to Visco port on the visco enough that the visco goes in till bottom of the ematch portion of the port...Then tape tightly to visco/cake.... Attach ematch...

OR

As said above...cut cake portion where visco is enough to expose tube where the visco goes in.... Use a BRass or non sparking poke / awl to widen the whole and insert ematch with the cover on into the whole..tape up to ensure no BP escapes... (if u use this method it has to be done same day as show or needs to be placed into ATF approved storage since doing this makes it a 1.3 item now)

[mguerra]

Do you have a citation in law of this notion that putting a match in a 1.4 item "makes it a 1.3 item now"? People repeat this notion over and over, I want to see the written law.

[mguerra]

There is no advantage to putting an ematch port on to a piece of visco, just so you can light the visco with a consumer imatch. You can light the visco with a consumer igniter (Talon or Falcon) cheaper. The advantage to be gained is by putting the imatch directly in to the lift charge, to get instant ignition instead of the delayed ignition you get with a fuse. If you do that, you don't need the port. There are two kinds of those ematch ports, one of them is designed to connect to visco. Those ports are for connecting an ematch to 1.3 product that come with a short piece of visco fuse leading in to the quickmatch. The other ematch ports are for connecting straight in to quickmatch. You didn't say which kind you have, but it doesn't matter. If you want to make use of your imatches, you need a brass awl, or poke, to enlarge the hole where the visco goes, remove the visco, and put the imatch directly in to the lift powder. The ports are superfluous and unecessary.

[martymower]

thanks for the info.

[N3OQO]

Something occurred to me as I read this thread, and as I read about the new consumer ematch. Another hobby of mine on and off since I was a kid has been model rocketry. Model rocket electric igniters have been around since the 60's. :p

[PyroManiacs]

Something occurred to me as I read this thread, and as I read about the new consumer ematch. Another hobby of mine on and off since I was a kid has been model rocketry. Model rocket electric igniters have been around since the 60's. :p


I myself have had model rockets as well.

Fun stuff!

[martymower]

do they light a fuse on the rocket?

[N3OQO]

do they light a fuse on the rocket?
No, they light the engine, the same principle as ematch. I'm not sure which came first, but my guess would be the model rocket igniters.

[algrant1]

I never lit a fuse on a rocket. The rocket was always efired.

[N3OQO]

I myself have had model rockets as well.

Fun stuff!

Fun stuff indeed! Both hobbies are as good as you make em. ;)

[displayfireworks1]

There may be some truth to what pyrolific is saying, but that should not stop you from doing it. Repeating a story from one of my anonymous sources in the business. He did a telephone testimony in a case where the ATF was involved in trying to prosecute a motorcycle gang member in a explosive pyrotechnic case. His testimony was not on the side of ATF an not what the ATF wanted to hear. But it was the truth. Within one week of his testimony, the ATF did a unannounced inspection of his operation.
In the days prior to the ATF inspection he wanted to test a multi-shot 1.4 cake he recently received. Instead of just lighting the entire cake he broke off two tubes. He electrically fired each tube to test the product. Now he has a 1.4 16 shot cake minus two tubes, he casually leaves it around the shop. During the inspection he was cited for not having the altered product in a magazine, in addition to some other violations.
Does adding electric match to a consumer cake make it a 1.3 product I highly doubt it, but it probably does change the storage requirements if left unintended overnight.
.
.
As far as the original question about those ports and consumer products. I do not find a need for them unless you are using quick-match. Those white ports are used to allow electric match access to quick-match so you do not have to remove the shroud cover.
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Are these the devices you are referencing?
http://pyroworks.us/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/a/fa-ev_connector.jpg

[martymower]

That's them.
The ones with the wires that heat up work but seem to need new batteries in the little firing units each time plus no putting two in line one after the other.
Thought the consumer matches might use less battery and could run 2 off of one cue. Do not really want to directly put holes in the product as that is to pro for me- but sometimes the thicker 10 or 20 second per foot fuse does not lite even though the wire melts in the consumer non ematch ones. Really just want to lite the main fuse on each of the small boards by pushing a button so I can watch more.

[PGH_Pyro]

next time you're hanging out with an experienced pyro-tech, ask them to show you how to poke into lift charge ... good thing to be able to do ...

[mguerra]

Most of these cheap firing systems can easily fire 3 or 4 Talons or Falcons if wired in parallel. Not wired in series! I have been using the same batteries in my MS12Q and Quantumfire 2x6XL for over a year. To get your fuse to light readily with the nichrome wire igniters, (Talon/Falcon), cut it on an angle to expose some powder and try to get the nichrome wire close to the exposed powder. You can't put the wire right on the angle cut because that is the very tip of the fuse and it won't clamp down securely. But if you put the wire about 1mm up from the exposed angle cut it will light nearly 100% of the time. I routinely fire four igniters on one cue wired in parallel with no problem. A lot of 1.4 cakes have skinny fuse that the igniters won't clamp down on securely. I cut off a short piece of the fuse, maybe 1/4", and then put it in the clamp with the skinny fuse to act as a shim. So in essence you are clamping down on double thickness fuse. Another good method is to tape a short piece of fast gray paper fuse to the entire length of the cake fuse and clamp your igniter on to the fast paper fuse. This also gets the cake to fire faster since it lights the cake fuse right where it enters the cake, not just at the tip. DO NOT hand light one fused this way!!! The other excellent aspect of this is that fast paper fuse ignites easier than visco. I now fire all of my cakes this way, or put a match directly in to the lift of the first tube. Go to my youtube channel, mguerramd, and look for the 3 videos on reusable shooting wire to see about parallel wiring some triples off of one cue. I do my triple cake fronts this way. Get a battery tester, one of the best purchases you will make, and test ALL your batteries before every shoot. You will be surprised at how many of both good and bad you will find. And you won't needlessly toss out good ones. This little gem is a lifesaver:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOBZJ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[mguerra]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHh5Ju1_nWo&list=UUOklJFmuO4DpB86o-O4A3LQ


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHcSFAwV3Og&list=UUOklJFmuO4DpB86o-O4A3LQ&index=4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVj78WdYQ1k&list=UUOklJFmuO4DpB86o-O4A3LQ&index=3

Note that for the MS12Q the speaker pins won't fit, you just need to use bare wire, tinned with solder, at the module end.

[mguerra]

BTW, I use limp, easy to coil, stranded 22 ga. wire, not solid core shooting wire nor door bell wire nor any other solid core wire. Those wires are too stiff to deal with on a reuseable basis. You can get 22 ga. stranded wire dirt cheap in 500 foot spools from Deep Surplus:
http://www.deepsurplus.com/Network-Structured-Wiring/18-24-Gauge/500ft-High-End-22-Gauge-2-Conductor-Zipcord-Honeywell-Clear

[martymower]

Thanks for the tips I will probably use some of them and will try the grey fast fuse leaders if I use anymore talons.

[Pyro Nation]

There may be some truth to what pyrolific is saying, but that should not stop you from doing it. Repeating a story from one of my anonymous sources in the business. He did a telephone testimony in a case where the ATF was involved in trying to prosecute a motorcycle gang member in a explosive pyrotechnic case. His testimony was not on the side of ATF an not what the ATF wanted to hear. But it was the truth. Within one week of his testimony, the ATF did a unannounced inspection of his operation.
In the days prior to the ATF inspection he wanted to test a multi-shot 1.4 cake he recently received. Instead of just lighting the entire cake he broke off two tubes. He electrically fired each tube to test the product. Now he has a 1.4 16 shot cake minus two tubes, he casually leaves it around the shop. During the inspection he was cited for not having the altered product in a magazine, in addition to some other violations.
Does adding electric match to a consumer cake make it a 1.3 product I highly doubt it, but it probably does change the storage requirements if left unintended overnight.
.
.
As far as the original question about those ports and consumer products. I do not find a need for them unless you are using quick-match. Those white ports are used to allow electric match access to quick-match so you do not have to remove the shroud cover.
.
Are these the devices you are referencing?
http://pyroworks.us/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/a/fa-ev_connector.jpg


Thats exactly the case/issue I was referring to.... and one my agent brought up because she knew I use a lot of 1.4